Celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum) from the Loire Valley — the swollen root of a celery variety bred specifically for its base rather than its stalks. It looks unpromising: knobbled, rough-skinned, caked in soil, and shaped like nothing in particular. Beneath that exterior is dense, ivory-white flesh with a flavour that sits between celery and parsley, with a nuttiness and sweetness that neither of those herbs can match on their own. This is a substantial root — around 900g — which gives you enough to work with across several preparations.

Celeriac is one of the most versatile winter vegetables in the French kitchen. Raw, it is the base of céleri rémoulade — shredded or julienned and dressed with a sharp mustard mayonnaise — which is one of the defining dishes of French bistro cooking and a standard component of a crudités plate. Cooked, it purées into something remarkably smooth and creamy without the need for cream, making it one of the best accompaniments to fish, game and roasted poultry. It also roasts well in wedges, braises in stock, and can be baked whole in a salt crust where it steams in its own moisture and emerges deeply flavoured and tender throughout.

Origin: Loire Valley, France

Ingredients: Celeriac (Apium graveolens var. rapaceum)

Storage: Store in the fridge, unwashed, in a paper bag or loosely wrapped. Celeriac keeps well — use within one to two weeks.

Allergens: Celery.